Many men have never had a professional shave, and those who have often booked it once for a special occasion. A hot towel shave is sometimes thought of as a spa treatment, but it is a technical service with a specific sequence, and each step has a purpose.
Hot towels
The first hot towel raises the temperature of the skin and softens the beard hair. Warm, hydrated hair cuts with less force, which means less drag on the skin. The towel feels good, but its main purpose is to prepare the skin and hair for the razor.
Lather
Canned foam sits on top of the skin. A lather applied with a brush is worked down into the beard, lifting each hair slightly away from the face and holding water against it.
Shaving with the grain
The first pass follows the direction of hair growth. This is the biggest difference between a professional shave and most home shaves. Shaving against the grain on the first pass is a common cause of ingrown hairs and razor burn.
Your barber will apply more lather and take a second pass, across or against the grain, only where your skin can tolerate it. Some skin can and some cannot, and your barber will judge this after looking at your skin.
Cold towel and balm
A cold towel closes the pores. A balm is then applied to replace moisture, because a straight razor removes a thin layer of dead skin along with the hair. This is why your face feels different after a shave and why it needs some care afterward.
Who benefits most
If you get razor burn, ingrown hairs, or neck irritation from shaving at home, book a hot towel shave and pay attention to what the barber does differently. Your barber can also suggest a few techniques to use at home.
At The Stray Hare, the Hot Towel Shave is $70 and takes about an hour.